Tuesday, July 1, 2008

Top Chefs Race to Napa Wildfires as Tankers Drop Rare Cabernet

Posted: At the time to make the wine

NAPA VALLEY, Calif. -- As wildfires burned thousands of acres of prime Napa Valley vineyards last week, the U.S. Forest Service's stainless steel air tankers were filled with the only liquid readily available in abundance: rare single-estate Cabernets and Pinot Noirs.

To reinforce the flying sommeliers, Forest Service officials called in hundreds of the nation's top chefs to prepare dishes that would best complement these wines. First on the scene was Mario Batali with four saucier pans, two 10-inch frying pans and a wok in his fat hands.

"The chance to cook my signature Bruschetta Al-Inferno with a 1990 Caymus Vineyards Special Selection Cab over a wild redwood fire is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity," he said. "Although I would have preferred the wine be delivered from oak casques instead of stainless because oak has more character, beggars can't be can't be choosers."

Also on the scene were several Food Network producers, who immediately began filming an episode "Iron Chef America" that featured 6,000 gallons of 2002 Opus One Merlot as the main ingredient.

Initially, police and firefighters had trouble keeping these chefs out, but when offered a sample of Charlie Trotter's dill and truffle risotto on tuilles with a 1941 Inglenook Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, they relented. Rachael Ray, however, was denied entry because her voice could not take any more smoke than it was exposed to while she was in college.

U.S. Forest Service Fire Chief Karen Walsh spoke to reporters about the fires' impact. "The smoke has an earthy hue with just a hint of oaky tannins," she said. "It definitely extends deep into your palette with a silky richness -- but it's not so thick as to be brooding."